You will only have to assemble the handle and attach it. Depending on how handy you are, this will take 5-15 minutes. Your packaging contains all the parts and instructions.

Your mower is a very low-maintenance device. Keep it clean of grass debris with a cloth or small brush. Keep it dry. Don't mow wet or damp grass. Keep it rust-free. Use spray silicone to apply a light coat to the blades and bed-knife. Not much silicone is required- don't allow it to build up.

The Scotts mower will require sharpening every season or two.
The NaturCut and Brill mowers won't require sharpening.
Their flame hardened blades are very durable and are estimated to be about 20 times harder than normal blades. Combined with the non-contact cutting system these blades will last the useful life of the mower.The life expectancy of our mowers is around 10 years of normal use. By the time the blades would need sharpening other components of the mower will probably need replacing. If you used one of our mowers and it cost you perhaps $250.00 then your cost of ownership for one of our mowers would be about $25.00 per year. That is less than sharpening shops charge for a single sharpening.

(NaturCut and Brill mowers only) The mowers usually cut properly right out of the box and require no initial adjustment. However you might have to deal with a minor adjustment in the beginning. The NaturCut and Brill Mowers both mention a yearly adjustment. Often even this adjustment is not required. The contact-free silent-cut action means that the bed-knife is adjusted so there is a very small gap between the rotating blades and the stationary bed-knife. Only the stationary bed-knife is adjusted. Each end of the stationary bed-knife has a bolt that is adjusted in small increments to establish the proper gap. See 'Walter's simple adjustment method'.

is to adjust the blade adjusting bolts until the rotating blades just evenly touch the stationary bed-knife. It is entirely possible that 1, 2 or even 3 blades might touch and the others might not- don't worry about that. (This is, after all, a lawn mower and not a medical device) Then adjust the bolts equally, in small increments of 1/8 turn, until the rotating blades no longer touch the stationary bed knife. Before any further adjusting try cutting your lawn. The mower will probably cut just fine. If the mower leaves uncut grass the gap is too wide and if the mower is hard to push, seizes up or leaves a 'scalloped' effect on the grass, even though the blades are not touching, the gap is probably too tight. A minor adjustment either way and you will probably be done. The trick here is to find the 'sweet spot' in the blade gap for your particular variety of grass and circumstance. Always adjust each bolt the same as the other to keep the blades parallel and don't be a slave to the blade gap gauge that comes with your mower- that is a nominal preset only. It takes so little time to properly adjust your mower that it is well worth the effort.